Afro or Curly Scalp
Afro, frizzy, curly or straight, hair plays a role that goes far beyond protection against sun exposure and trauma. Among other things, it indicates gender, race, sexuality, identity, acceptance and beauty. Beauty standards have undergone many changes over time. We have lived through times when perms were all the rage; in other times, the most beautiful thing was to wear wigs, showing off different hair styles. In other times, beauty was associated with straight hair and even children were forced to hide their flyaway hair and adopt tight ponytails and pigtails.
With these more or less established standards, anyone who deviated from this was subjected to chemical straightening treatments and some of the choices involved were not beneficial to health. – even being toxic. During this period, afro and curly hair, as well as specific products for their treatments, were in decline. With the continued use of chemicals illegal of hair transformation – formaldehyde and the like –, increased evidence of fiber damage, including hair breakage, hair loss and scalp dysfunction.
Particularities of Afro and Curly Hair
In recent times, attention has turned to afro and curly hair, giving it more space in the media and in the cosmetics market. After years of cultivating straight hair, it is now necessary to relearn and respect the particularities of these hair types. To this end, there is a huge emphasis on hair care, forgetting the need to maintain a healthy scalp.
In this case, it is necessary to understand its physiology in order to provide specific care for the ethnic group. Hair follicles in Afros are flattened. This favors a different inclination towards the sebaceous glands and, therefore, the protein conformation in an elliptical shape and the asymmetric distribution with repair of the ortho and paracortex. Due to this characteristic morphology, the oils excreted by the scalp have greater difficulty in traveling the entire dimension of the Afro and curly hair. Naturally, this further favors the natural dryness of this type of hair (CARVALHO et al 2005; LUZ, 2018).
Scalp Microbiota Care
This accumulation of oil on the leather – not distributed in the wire –, plus the excessive use of more oily cosmetics and, in many cases, a reduced frequency of cleaning are factors that can influence a change in the microbiota: a group of bacteria and fungi that feed on sebum and keratinocytes – dead skin cells. The fine balance of the microbiota is essential for protection, good functioning of the metabolism and production of amino acids, nutrients and vitamins important for the growth of healthy hair.
Inattention to scalp care It can lead to disorders such as seborrheic dermatitis, an inflammatory process especially common in black skin. Another problem that can be caused is folliculitis., an inflammation of the follicle that is also very common in black skin, due to the direction of hair growth, which curves downwards and penetrates the epidermis or grows inside the follicle itself, piercing its wall and causing inflammation.
Other common problems include itching, irritation, flaking and traction alopecia, due to hairstyle habits with prolonged tension and lack of elastic that anchors the follicles, which is irreversible in some cases. Although it is essential to take proper care of afro and curly hair and pay attention to its needs for greater lipid replacement, we cannot ignore the importance of removing pollutants, dirt, cosmetic residue and excess sebum. In addition to all this, there is also the need to conditioning replacement for shine, combability and care with finishing products appropriate to the typical needs of afro and curly hair(OLIVEIRA, 2013; RACINE INSTITUTE, 2005; LUZ, 2018).
Important Tips
Routine care is necessary to achieve healthy and beautiful curly hair, such as:
When cleaning, it is important to balance the water temperature and avoid hot water, as this further stimulates dry hair and promotes flaking on the scalp.
Regulating hydrolipidic levels in the hair fiber is essential to provide better formatting of curls and waves.
Use gentle formulations with decongestant potential, combating micro-inflammations and improving the general condition of the scalp.
Rinse the scalp thoroughly and avoid depositing residues that could cause an imbalance in homeostasis.
If you need a slightly more cleansing shampoo at some point, protect your hair fiber first. A good suggestion is to use pure vegetable oil.
Do not sleep with wet hair, to avoid the proliferation of fungi and bacteria.
Massage the scalp to improve blood supply and facilitate the delivery of nutrients.
In the shower, use your fingers to detangle your hair and remember: wet hair is more prone to breakage.
Invest in products rich in good fats and that provide gentle cleansing to balance the needs of both the scalp and hair fiber, always respecting their characteristics.
If you have difficulty mastering and gaining specific knowledge about your hair type, seek a professional. hair therapy to guide you in achieving a balance between scalp and hair, avoiding the dysfunctions most common in black skin.
Remember if: Your curls are like your heart and need special care to stay beautiful and, above all, healthy!
