18-MEA: Essential Lipid for Hair
You've probably heard of 18-MEA, a lipid that adheres to the surface of the hair fiber. But do you know why it's so important for our hair? 18-MEA is a long-chain fatty acid that is strongly linked to the outermost layer of the cuticle. Its presence makes the surface of the fiber more hydrophobic, slowing down the penetration of water into the hair and preserving its properties, such as combability, protection, etc.
18-MEA Acts Against Hair Porosity
18-MEA is a lipid that acts as a lubricant, reducing friction between strands of hair. Its absence influences the sensory perception of hair, making it dry to the touch or difficult to comb [1,2]. Chemical transformation procedures, as well as common everyday handling, such as washing and brushing, can cause the loss of these and other lipids, making hair more porous.
Once removed, the fiber has a greater affinity for water. – becomes more hydrophilic – and, consequently, with other cosmetic products. Furthermore, the interior of the fiber – cortex – becomes more susceptible to damage [2,3]. In practice, this means that without this lipid barrier, the reaction speed tends to increase in chemical procedures, which can further damage the fiber in addition to the loss of lipids that has already occurred.
18-MEA Decrease in Colored and Bleached Hair
Studies show that procedures such as bleaching and coloring promote a decrease in the level of 18-MEA while increasing the amount of cysteic acid. This acid originates from the chemical oxidation of cystine, an amino acid that contributes to the mechanical strength and elasticity of our hair. This damage is cumulative, as the hair is subjected to bleaching and subsequent procedures.
With this in mind, it is easy to understand why the absence of 18-MEA also promotes changes in the mechanical properties of our hair, such as increased fragility and breakage [2]. Furthermore, the levels of lipids in the hair – even in those not chemically treated – decrease at the end closest to the root – more lipid – and the tips – less lipid. This occurs towards the tip of the hair, where the daily effects of wear and tear accumulate [4].
Conclusion
Therefore, to maintain hair health, It is very important to use products that replenish this protective lipid structure and, as a consequence, compensate for other losses that naturally occur throughout the day.. Many cosmetics, including conditioners and finishing products, seek to mimic this lipid barrier, which is so essential for the integrity of our hair. Since daily wear and tear occurs in all hair types, this also applies to natural hair.
Suggested Protocols
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Scalp hygiene: D.Tox Shampoo
Cleaning the stem: shampoo Straight
Conditioning: Conditioner Straight
Finishing: Out Frizz e Building Fiber
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Cleaning the scalp and shaft: Co-Washing Shampoo
Conditioning: T4 Mask
Finishing: Leave-on T4 ou Liquifying Oil Vector.
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References:
[1] CR Robbins. Chemical and physical behavior of human hair. New York: Springer-Verlag 2012.
[2] Y Masukawa, H Tsujimura, H Tanamachi, H Narita, G Imokawa. Damage to Human Hair Caused by Repeated Bleaching Combined with Daily Weathering during Daily Life Activities. Exog Dermatol 2004;3:273–281.
[3] R Kon, A Nakamura, N Hirabayashi, K Takeuchi. Analysis of the damaged components of permed hair using biochemical technique. J Cosmet Sci 1998; 49:13–22.
[4] CR Robbins, Kelly CH. Amino acid composition of human hair. Text Res J 1970; 40:891–896.
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